Triana

For a more authentic and decidedly less well-scrubbed experience, it’s worth crossing the river to explore this scruffy but vibrant old quarter, historically the centre of azulejo, or glazed-tile production. There are plenty of tapas bars for sustenance to sustain your ceramic shopping, and it’s fun to seek out the surviving corrales. These tiny buildings with flower-smothered courtyards once housed extended the gypsy families from which emerged Spain’s greatest flamenco dynasties.