For 17 days every October, about 4 million revelers arrive at Bremer Freimarkt to ride ferris wheels, roller coasters, and ghost trains and feed on fried dough, spicy liquorice, and smoked eel. One of the oldest fairs in Germany, the event first took place in 1035. Of course, it's changed a great deal over that time, with blacksmiths, jugglers, and storytellers giving way to fireworks, cotton candy, and a parade of creatively and colorfully decorated floats. The modern version of Freimarkt runs with delirious energy, as merrymakers sway to rock bands in tents and zip among more than 300 attractions on the neon-lit fairscape.